If you have one, a belt sander with a 60 grit belt will put in a decent bevel in less time, but I'm keeping my instructions simple. Heck, use a brace and bit if you want, itll give the same results, it just takes longer.Now, after quenching, the steel is extremely hard, harder than glass and just as brittle. You can also send out your blade for heat treatment3. Once you have the front cut, you need to do some shaping. I cant really tell you how to do this, just use files and sandpaper to shape the grip to be comfortable to hold. Perfect for half-blinds and the like.As for drill bits. I coated mine in layout fluid, then used my calipers to scribe a line dead center, but a ruler and a steady hand with a sharpie works too. WHo am i kidding, of course it does! Works well, you can sharpen the blades.I use Colt brad point bits, mostly. Once you've got the handle shaped and sanded, apply an appropriate finish. I been rolling around the idea of making a marking knife from the two halves. The key things here are to keep both the back of the blade and the bevel as flat as you can, and to polish both those surface as high as you can, so make for the best edge. No? when the magnet no longer sticks to the metal, quench it.3. The drill bit hunt is still on, but I have finally got on top of the iron dagger. Check the pictures if that didn't make sense, it barely made sense to type it...Alrighty, now that the blades cleaned up, time to attach the handle scales! First things first, you need to flatten the back (the side opposite the bevel), so it sits nice against a straight-edge and makes a sharp edge. Use your file to bring it down almost to a sharp edge, then go back to the sandpaper to sharpen it. Now, a pencil is an excellent tool, and one of the most used in a woodshop, its hard to beat the convenience for marking a cut line. They’re not cheap, but they’re worth it.The handle was made of tape and rag.A Stanley knife’s good for the rough stuff; them craft knives will only do the delicate.Thanks for the tip, Richard. No protractor? The initial shallow cut helps guide the blade. Leave about the thickness of a dime on the edge. As light as you can. USE A MAGNET ON AND EXTENDABLE SHAFT !! Since the angled edge, the one you just cut, is going to be the cutting edge, we'll be putting the bevel there. This style blade is also handy for loads of other tasks, its an excellent general-purpose utility knife. Drill one hole, then insert a piece of your rod stock (cut down to a 3/4" long pin) through that hole. Fairly inexpensive. The English WoodworkerI just bought an old screwdriver at a garage sale for 50 cents and shaped the point on a grinder, works fine, I use it for just about everything, an old busted up chisel would work too – just shape the tip how you want it.Stanley 10-049 folding pocket knife.
The others all have uses in the shop. Ive use mine for everthing from leather work to paper-craft, in addition to layout work.When HEAT TREATING, use a magnet on the red hot blade.
Hot tip, hold the blade in a set of pliers instead of by hand to avoid an ER visit!3. Well done!3. First, take your bad of steel and cut off a piece 6" long. Sandpaper - For smoothing and polishing the blade, as well as the handleAnyway, once you've got those marks laid out, drill a 1/8" hole through each. Once you've got the clamps on, be sure to clean any glue from the front of the scales before it dries, otherwise you'll scratch the blade trying to remove itThis is an extremely simple project, from start to finish you need a hacksaw, a file and a drill. What to do?Now, i used my belt grinder for this, so it took me about a minute and a half, taking my time. The steel needs to get NON MAGNETIC. I thought I would have deleted the word.
Schematics Kiridashi Kogatana Marking Knife // DIY Drafts SebastiaanMollema.
My favourite knife for many years was a bit of old hacksaw blade, sharpened to a spear like point, so it could be used right or left-handed.
The temperature for NON MAGNETIC STEEL is 1400 to 1500 degrees F !!! Use the pins to line up the scales properly on the blade, then clamp up the whole assembly and let the glue cure. And finding a good marking knife. Also usable are a fire with an air blower for the low tech, a gas forge if you have one, or what ill be using, an electric kiln. Now, on that center line, make a mark half an inch from the back of the blade (the side opposite the cutting edge), then make a mark an inch and a half from the first one, then another mark an inch and a half from that. Its a lot easier to do these steps before you get the handle on, so get it right now and make your life easier later!1. No complicated tools or materials needed, although to be fair the complicated tools do make the process easier. Again, cant tell you what to use for that without knowing what handle material your usingThe traditional solution to this conundrum is a special tool called a marking knife. Degrease the knife and the inside of the scales with some acetone or denatured alcohol, then mix up some 2 part epoxy. This is called tempering, and doing this will soften the steel and toughen it up, so you'll actually be able to use your knife without cracking it.