Repeat for the other 2 assemblies. Discussion. The upgrade I’m going to concentrate on in this post is the installation of a duet smart effector. Do you have any Comparison prints from the stock effector to the Duet. I'm just in the research part of this upgrade, and likely end up waiting until summer before I do a major overhaul on my printer as I won't be doing much printing due to the fact that it gets up to 47C where I live and the AC barely keeps up as it is. What I will probably do is upgrade the effector to a smart effector at the same time and kill two birds with one stone. See below for photos of it installedHey Jay great article.
It appears to be down to the hotend that anycubic use so at some point that will be getting an upgrade.
They do thick out the underside of the converter a fair bit, but that is because we will use them later to mount the fan brackets. Start with TLDR, Anycubic predator, now has duet wifi, Titan extruder/volcano hotend and bl touch. it is not clear to me where the 4 wires of the z sensor must be inserted on the duet board! Then mount the smart effector to the converter and secure in place using 6 of the M3 x 20 screws.
... so after trying screwing around for a while went of duet wifi. With changing this part I am also forced to upgrade to an E3D V6 all metal hot end, which for me is better, as the one supplied by anycubic is limited to a maximum temperature of 260 degrees Celsius. Make sure the screws are done up nice and tight so they don’t come loose. Plate will not melt or anything but it feels not so sturdy as original one.
I mostly want to reduce the overall print time, save power, and have the option of printing more high temp materials with an all metal hotend(another reason why I'm considering modifying the aluminum effector rather than using a printed one).Why do you want to replace stock with Volcano?
I am new to the 3d world and still waiting for my Anycubic Predator to arrive. By chance can you, or could you upload the config for this on github?Thank you Jay. Just follow the guide on the wiki and you’ll be fine.Hello! Dimensions of printed detail shifts a little too.As far as thermal barriers are concerned I have made a block sock mold for the stock hotend and cast my own with high temp RTV silicone, which has allowed me to get up to about 18-20mm3/s out of it, which isn't terrible, but a volcano(or stacking 2 of the round v6 compatible variant with a volcano nozzle) would easily double that, assuming the extruder could even keep up with that, likely would end up upgrading that as well.Thanks for the response.
now I only have 2! Each fan should be wired in parallel and plugged into the part cooling fan port on the smart effector. Guess I could just make a thicker version and and/or cover the bottom with heat reflective tape, maybe even integrate a cooling duct into the plate to act as a barrier and actively cool it at the same time. Based on reviews I have seen I will need to upgrade part cooler and build an enclosure.So its been a while since I’ve updated you on the status of my predator. I have already installed the Wi-Fi duet and now I wanted to install the Smart effector, but I can’t find the guide with the wiring! can you help me?sorry I had not read that you had written in parallel. You can do this either with the arms attached to the machine or with them removed. This is due to requiring extra cables etc. Since changing over to a duet, I have a number of further changes to my machine.So what does changing to a smart effector gain you? The hot end I have no clue which one will be best for this printer, and best place to buy them and the hardened ends required. Then tap the 2 inner holes on each fan bracket using an M3 tap.
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Are you aware of upgrades that will allow printing using other filaments like nylon, carbon fiber etc?The upgrade I’m going to concentrate on in this post is the installation of a duet smart effector. Warmed plate started to add some minor errors in any operations, like delta calibration, leveling, table offset and so on. ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Predator Largest Delta Pulley with Auto Leveling 370x370 x 455mm Large 3D Printing Plus Size Titan Extruder Just trying come up with ideas at this point.Regarding thermal barriers, I have made a block sock mold for the stock hotend and cast my own with high temp RTV silicone, which has allowed me to get up to about 18-20mm3/s out of it, which isn't terrible. After all, I do not recommend to use this design in combination with PETG filament.I don't like V5 stock heat-sink, but it not so bad, just thermal barriers are not very common.I'm just in the research part of this upgrade, and likely end up waiting until summer before I do a major overhaul on my printer as I won't be doing much printing due to the fact that it gets up to 47C where I live and the AC barely keeps up as it is.It's folding up pretty good, BUT after 20-30 minutes of continuous work, whole plate started to heat up and became little soft. I know you have done some changes in-between like the arms and such. I had a feeling PETG would have issues.